Tan Fruit Cuvee Tan Fruit Chardonnay 2021

Robert Parker
The 2021 Chardonnay Cuvée Tan Fruit comes from Dijon vines in the Maresh Vineyard, planted on a south-facing slope in 1991, plus a number of other sources around Willamette Valley. Bottled a few months earlier than the other Tan Fruit Chardonnays, its savory aromas explode from the glass: a core of peachy fruit is streaked with touches of candle smoke, matchstick, pie crust and floral tones. Medium-bodied, seamless and satiny, it flows effortlessly through the mouth with both depth of flavor and freshness. It has a pleasing touch of grip to anchor the long finish and feels like it has more to give as it unwinds in bottle over the next several years. Around 1,000 cases were made.

Tan Fruit is a brand-new project from Jim Maresh, proprietor of his family winery, Arterberry Maresh, and the winemaker behind some of the most exciting Chardonnays in the Willamette Valley today. Much of the fruit for the Arterberry Maresh wines are sourced from older estate vines, and very few cases are made each year. In 2019, Maresh founded Tan Fruit, for which he will purchase fruit. "I hear about fruit for sale that I'd love to play with," he explains. "It doesn't work for Arterberry, but for Tan Fruit, there are no rules." He made six cuvées this initial vintage, and unsurprisingly, they are some of the best Chardonnays of 2019. The first set of Tan Fruit wines will be released sometime in 2022, and I hope to be first to sign up for this mailing list!