Domaine du Vicomte Liger-Belair La Romanée Grand Cru 2010

The 2010 La Romanee blossoms from the glass in every direction. At present it comes across as extremely primary, with very little in the way of aromatic development. The tannins are firm yet well-balanced, which bodes very well for the future. The sheer purity and integrity of the fruit is remarkable. This is a dazzling wine, but very, very young. A recent bottle of the 2009 was equally stratospheric. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.

Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s wines keep getting better. The improvement is less a reflection of the underlying vintages and more the result of the work the estate has done to convert their vineyards to biodynamic farming. These are some of the most unique and compelling wines being made anywhere in Burgundy. The house style emphasizes the weightless transparency, finesse and sweetness that only Pinot Noir (and perhaps Nebbiolo) is capable of. As good as the 2010s are, the 2009s have also turned out beautifully. I will report on those wines in the April issue. Readers may also want to check out my video interview with Louis-Michel Liger-Belair posted on www.erobertparker.com for more historical perspective on the domaine.

Leveres i OWC.