Pacalet's 2010 Chambolle-Musigny incorporates fruit from premier crus Combottes and Charmes. "The hail here had little consequence," insists Pacalet, "save for a bit of sorting, but not very severely." The results certainly bear him out. Marrow, cherry, cherry pit, brown spices, tamarind, and bittersweet, iris-like floral notes fill both the nose and mouth here, with the perfume lingering past a silken texture to a buoyant, refreshing finish. Saline and chalky notes shimmer through the fruit and liquid flowers here in a manner that puts me in mind of a great white wine, and I wonder what I would have written had I been able to taste this truly blind.