López de Heredia Viña Bosconia Reserva 2005 0,75

275,00 pris ved 1. stk Inkl. moms pris fra 225,00

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Land Vintype Region Producent Årgang Volume
Spanien Rød Rioja López de Heredia 2005 750
94 Robert Parker

Bosconia Reserva er en anelse mere frugtig end Tondonia Reserva, hvor sidstnævnte oftest byder på mere struktur. Viña Bosconia Reserva har tilbragt 5 år på fade og siden 6 år på flaske, før den blev frigivet til salg – langt, langt længere lagring end loven foreskriver selv for gran reserva. López de Heredia fra Haro i la Rioja Alta står som definitionen på old school, ikke bare i Rioja, men er enestående i hele vinverdenen. Meget lidt er ændret her siden dannelsen i 1877. Alle druer i produktionen høstes fra egne marker - i dette tilfælde 'Bosconia', hvor alle vinstokke - helt usædvanligt for Rioja - står som bush vines, dvs. uden opbinding.

Gæringen foregår i 24.000 liters åbne egefade med over 130 år på bagen. Eftersom fadene har fået lov at beholde en del af vinstenslaget, så fungerer dette lags ujævnheder som et perfekt sted for den vildgær, der sørger for en uproblematisk spontangæring af den nye høst. Til lagring anvendes hovedsageligt gamle barriques af amerikansk eg. Filtrering anvendes ikke – her omstikkes blot et par gange årligt og resten klares med klaring på gammeldags manér med æggehvider. Blendet udgøres af 80% tempranillo, 15% garnacha, mens de resterende 5% udgøres af graciano og mazuelo. 

Viña Bondonia Reserva 2005 er drikkemoden nu, men den kan også gemmes mindst et årti endnu. I duft og smag finder den opmærksomme vinnyder svævende, æteriske aromaer af rød frugt, lidt læder, ceder, efterårsskovbund med mos og svampe. 

Robert Parker 94P
A worthy follow up to the 2004 is the 2005 Viña Bosconia Reserva, a wine that they consider the most rustic and powerful in the winery, but that I find as elegant and subtle as it gets. This feels very much in line with the 2004, maybe a notch above even, a lower yielding year. The nose is somehow closed and feels young with the elegant rusticity lurking from the bottom of the glass, clean and precise. The tannins are velvety and there is great acidity--a constant here. The wine is terribly elegant. I simply loved this wine. 99,000 bottles were filled in June 2011.

When I asked María José López de Heredia about their latest news, she simply replied, "We keep making Viña Tondonia as we have always done it." But the good news is that the rosé is making a comeback in the market, as the 2008 is released ten years after the harvest. The previous vintage was 2000, but there was a hiatus, as the market didn't support an oak-aged rosé with ten years of age, and they stopped making it. However, tastes changed again, and when demand came back, they had no wine to offer. It's the same as the rest of the other Gran Reserva wines, which will not come back into the market until 2021, with the wines from the exceptional 2001 vintage. I'm already counting down the days!

Here, the surprise is 2006, which in some parts of Rioja could be a bit warm but here is a lot fresher, and the wines are superb. They compared it with 2015, a year they like very much and think will have to be aged in barriques for a very long time. As for 2017, they had a big loss of volume because of frost.

Even if their wines are released at least ten years after the harvest, most of them will develop in bottle for years, sometimes decades, something I know well, but María José López de Heredia insisted on uncorking a rosé and a white from the 1970s that were singing.