Krug Vintage 2006

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ELLER
Land Vintype Region Producent Årgang Volume
Frankrig Champagne Champagne Krug 2006 75CL
97 Robert Parker

Robert Parker
Krug's superb 2006 Brut, which will be released this year, numbers among the vintage's high points, unfurling in the glass with a complex and expressive bouquet of tarte tatin, warm biscuits, ginger, honeycomb, dried white flowers, smoke and toasted nuts. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and textural, with a fleshy attack that reflects the warm vintage but segues into a beautifully vibrant palate that's deep and surprisingly reserved, displaying superb definition, delicately chalky structure and a long, lively finish. While this is a powerful vintage Krug, it's also beautifully balanced and will give immense pleasure for decades.

A flying April visit to Reims enabled me to taste this exciting selection of recent and forthcoming releases from Krug, including the latest rendition of their iconic Grande Cuvée—a bottling that's now enumerated to offer wine lovers a clearer idea of what they're buying and when they might want to drink it—and the 2006 vintage. As readers will know, the concept behind Grande Cuvée is to draw on the maison's unrivaled library of reserve wines to complement the base yielded by each successive vintage, supplementing any deficiencies and tempering any excesses. Thus, a rich vintage such as 2006 will be blended with brighter, livelier reserve wines, whereas a leaner, tangier year will be enriched with reserve wines from broader, fleshier years. Of course, that's a simplification, and the devil is in the detail: each "Édition" of Grande Cuvée typically contains considerably more than 100 different wines and is the result of six months of intensive tasting by the Krug team. The aim, as Cellar Master Eric Lebel describes it, is not to produce the same wine each year, but to produce the best possible wine each year, so every rendition of Grande Cuvée is different—differences that are now highlighted by Krug's laudable decision to enumerate each successive release. A lengthier visit shortly after this issue goes to press will delve deeper into the secrets of the maison that many—the present writer included—would denominate as Champagne's greatest house, but for now, all the wines reviewed here evidently come warmly recommended, and they are striking testimony to Krug's remarkable consistency.

Krug er uden tvivl et af verdens mest eksklusive Champagnehuse. Domænet er beliggende i Champagne-regionen i det nordøstlige Frankrig, og blev grundlagt i 1843 af tyskeren Johann-Joseph Krug. Hans drøm var at lave den bedste af den bedste Champagne, som kunne frigives hvert år uanset de årlige variationer i klimaet. En drøm som helt klart er gået i opfyldelse den dag i dag. Joseph Krugs filosofi, var at man ikke skulle opdele husets Champagne i hierarkier, og denne tankegang fastholder Krug i dag, hvor huset tilbyder syv forskellige Champagner, alle med deres helt eget udtryk, men uden at være opdelt i bestemte hierarkier. I stedet er det antallet af Champagnen, der bestemmer prisfastsættelsen.

Selvom domænet i 1999 blev solgt til luksuskoncernen Louis Vuitton-Möet-Hennessy (LVMH), er det stadig et medlem af Krug familien, som leder Champagnehuset – nemlig Olivier Krug, som er den sjette generation af Krug familien. Dette sikrer at husets autenticitet lever videre, og at Krugs Champagne stadig bliver lavet efter grundlæggeren Johann-Joseph Krugs principper.

Krug er Champagne med individualitet og stor personlighed. Som den nuværende kældermester Julie Cavil siger det bedst ”Vores job er, i en slurk at genforene den mest komplette sensoriske oplevelse, en Champagne kan tilbyde”. Noget som man i den grad må sige, at de lykkes med gang på gang hos Krug.

Champagnen gæres altid på egetræsfade, hvilket giver den karakteristiske rige, fyldige og nøddeagtige smag. Champagnen fra dette legendariske hus ældes med ynde og bør nydes ligeså.