As if it were possible, the NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance takes things up a notch or three. Montrachet with bubbles might be a good description for this profound, utterly moving Champagne. Waves of rich, sensual fruit supported by French oak and persistent veins of minerality all come together in this deep, totally satisfying Champagne. Even with all of the richness and depth, there is no sense of heaviness at all. This is a decidedly vibrant Substance, with fewer of the more oxidative notes this solera-style Champagne sometimes presents. Readers lucky enough to find it will enjoy one of the world's truly great wines.
I visited Anselme and Corinne Selosse just as they were putting the finishing touches on their new boutique hotel in Avize. I am not sure they make enough wine to satisfy the thirst of their patrons, but that is another story! This is a fabulous set of wines, among the very best I have ever tasted here.