Mugnier’s wines of the vintage, his 2007 Musigny exudes ripe, vanilla- and star anise-tinged black raspberry and cassis, underlain by clean, marrow-like meatiness. Already satiny in texture, yet buoyant, this finishes with dark-fruited, forest floor-inflected, palate-staining persistence yet a soothing, enveloping personality that is anything but palate-straining. Even though this is an unusually approachable example of its kind, few Burgundian Pinots of its vintage, I suspect, will justify the 15 or more years of glory that I would anticipate from this Musigny.
Frederic Mugnier’s 2008s – which I last tasted shortly before their March bottling – did not experience the exceptionally late malo-lactic transformation that characterized so many wines of that vintage. Yields were especially low thanks not only to vintage-typical millerandage, but – particularly in the case of Les Amoureuses – to the vines’ slow recovery from the shock of 2007 hail.