The NV Brut Tradition Grand Cru is gorgeous. Rich, resonant and expressive on the palate, but with the freshness that is now part of the house style, the Brut Tradition is wonderfully complete. Dried pear, smoke, crushed flowers and chamomile are finely-knit in this super-appealing, mid-weight Champagne. The current release spent 54 months on its lees, which is decidedly on the long side for a wine in its peer group. Then again, long aging is one of the things that distinguishes these very special, artisan Champagnes from the pack.