Robert Parker 92P
The 2015 Pouilly Fuisse les Chevrieres comes from red, ferrous, clay-limestone soils and was aged for 18 months on the fine lees, mainly in Stockinger demi-muids. It has a fresh bouquet with scents of red apple, rose petals and blackcurrant leaf and a sophisticated nose that is very well defined. The palate is very well balanced, perhaps the most reticent of Cornin's 2015s at the moment, yet I love the detail and mineralité of this Pouilly-Fuissé, fanning out on the finish in convincing fashion. This is up there with the excellent 2012 Les Chevrières that I encountered on my first visit to the domaine.
I don't know why, but every time I visit Romain Cornin at the winery in the southern sector of Mâconnais near Chaintré, it is always baking hot. Therefore, it is a relief to enter the vat room and keep cool, just like his wines. The reins have been passed in recent years from Dominique to Romain, whose first fully responsible vintage was in 2012. The vineyards are a mixture of owned vines and fermage, about half and half of each. "We plowed early and left a lot of leaves on the vine as it was hot during the summer. It was difficult to choose when to harvest. In the end we decided to pick 26 August (we often start the same time as Bret Brothers). Everything was around 13.2% to 13.5% alcohol with just one tank that reached 14%. This is because of the farming: organic with biodynamic methods, which means that the grapes can be picked with good balance. Also, in recent vintages, it is important to pick at exactly the right time and quickly. My father has a long experience with the vineyards so he knows the vines." There are two standouts within the range, certainly the Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Reyssié and Les Chevrières, and knockout wines that are flooded with terroir—both highly recommended.
Dominique Cornin hører til i den sydlige del af Bourgogne, hvor man siden 2003 har dyrket efter Biodynamiske principper. Man ønsker at fastholde en sund og bæredygtig tilgang til produktionen med en jordbund som er både rig og levende i sit udtryk. Man har siden 1998 helt afholdt sig fra brug af syntetiske hjælpemidler i marken og søger markant terroir i vinene.