Domaine Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 2017 75CL

2.395,00 Inkl. moms:

Lagerstatus: På lager

ELLER
Land Vintype Region Producent Årgang Distrikt Volume
Frankrig Hvid Bourgogne Domaien Raveneau 2016 Chablis 75CL
94+ Robert Parker
95 Vinous

Robert Parker 
A brilliant wine that numbers among the finest recent renditions of this cuvée, Raveneau's 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux wafts from the glass with a complex bouquet of lemon oil, green apple, dried white flowers, almond paste and iodine. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with terrific depth and concentration, racy acids and exquisite textural finesse. Impeccably balanced, this is a strikingly elegant, complete Butteaux that's somewhat reminiscent of the domaine's 2010, though I suspect it will drink well sooner than that wine.

In last year's Chablis report, I wondered aloud how one explains the Raveneau magic? Yields here aren't excessively high, but they're not the region's lowest. Fermentation at between 18 degrees and 20 degrees centigrade in tank, followed by élevage in used barrels define the very elementary outlines of the winemaking process—a description that would equally apply to Vincent Dauvissat's stylistically different wines. The devil, presumably, is in the details.

This year's visit with Bernard Raveneau, with whom I passed a fascinating two hours, revealed a new piece of the puzzle. When I inquired about the importance of lees during the wine's time in wood, Raveneau's response was memorable: "I've never understood why we change babies, whereas we leave a wine in its excrement!" Clearly, therefore, the Raveneau wines go to barrel after their fermentation in tank with very little in the way of solids, and perhaps this provides a point of distinction—in addition, of course, to different approaches in the vineyards—with Vincent Dauvissat's more reductive wines. In any case, as I wrote last year, I'm content to ponder the domaine's mysteries for the foreseeable future, as the Domaine Raveneau is undoubtedly the source of some of Chablis's greatest wines—and its most dependably long-lived.

The 2017s, which were bottled during my two weeks in Chablis, increasingly resemble the domaine's 2010s, though they're a touch more extroverted and expressive in style. While acknowledging that "people will fixate on the Clos and Montée de Tonnerre," I suspect Raveneau may have shared my preference for the Butteaux and Valmur over their more famous siblings in this year's collection. Tasted from barrel, where they had only just begun their élevage, the 2018s—which represent the first copious yield chez Raveneau for several years—were already quite put-together, supple and incipiently delicious. It doesn't appear to be a vintage built for the long haul, but it will deliver immense near- and medium-term pleasure, as well as what appears to be, at this early stage, a more classically Chablisien profile.

Readers looking for more on this important estate and its history are directed to my article published in the End of March issue of The Wine Advocate, which includes information previously unpublished in English.