The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux has a sensual nose with subtle hazelnut, smoke and almost resinous scents, verging on Riesling scents, that are beautifully defined. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with pleasing, mouth-watering salinity, easing back toward the finish with Granny Smith apples and a healthy dash of lemongrass. I can imagine this changing a lot in bottle – it comes across as a mercurial Chablis Butteaux.
It is stiflingly hot in Chablis. The sun is beating down mercilessly. What better way to cool down than a tasting at Domaine Raveneau? Isabelle Raveneau, who has taken an increasingly central role in the running of Chablis’ most famous Domaine, advised that it was particularly cool down in their barrel cellar and recommended a jacket, a thought that was inconceivable given the heat outside. I told her that I would relish the chance to cool down in a T-shirt and managed to taste through their 2013s in bottle and 2014s from barrel without contracting hypothermia.