Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 2009 Magnum
Clos des Papes er en af de helt store producenter i Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Huset solgte allerede i 1896 vin under egen etiket, og den daværende ejer, Paul Avril, var meget aktiv i skabelsen af appellationen. I dag er det barnebarnet Paul-Vincent Avril som står bag deres vine, og det er gået ganske godt.
Clos des Papes kan typisk nydes ved frigivelsen, men ønsker man den perfekte balance bør man vente 5-8 år. Udbyttet holdes omkring 12-15 Hl/Ha, og vinifikationen er meget traditionel. Paul-Vincent er ikke tilhænger af brug af ny eg, så lagringen foregår på store gamle foudres (store træfade) og i cementtanke. Der produceres kun én rød Chateauneuf, og snakken om prestige-cuvèer er overflødig når der laver vin af så høj klasse som hos Clos des Papes. Vingården har praktiseret biodynamisk og økologisk produktion i snart 20 år og har siden 2011 været økologicertificeret ("Agriculture biologique").
Robert Parker har følgende ord omkring Clos des Papes: ”Clos des Pape is one of the reference point estates for traditional, age-worthy Châteauneuf du Pape.”
Clos des Papes er en af de helt store producenter i Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Huset solgte allerede i 1896 vin under egen etiket, og den daværende ejer, Paul Avril, var meget aktiv i skabelsen af appellationen. I dag er det barnebarnet Paul-Vincent Avril som står bag deres vine, og det er gået ganske godt.
Clos des Papes kan typisk nydes ved frigivelsen, men ønsker man den perfekte balance bør man vente 5-8 år. Udbyttet holdes omkring 12-15 Hl/Ha, og vinifikationen er meget traditionel. Paul-Vincent er ikke tilhænger af brug af ny eg, så lagringen foregår på store gamle foudres (store træfade) og i cementtanke. Der produceres kun én rød Chateauneuf, og snakken om prestige-cuvèer er overflødig når der laver vin af så høj klasse som hos Clos des Papes. Vingården har praktiseret biodynamisk og økologisk produktion i snart 20 år og har siden 2011 været økologicertificeret ("Agriculture biologique").
Robert Parker har følgende ord omkring Clos des Papes: ”Clos des Pape is one of the reference point estates for traditional, age-worthy Châteauneuf du Pape.”
Land | Frankrig |
---|---|
Producent | Clos des Papes |
Region | Rhone |
Sub Region | Syd Rhone |
Distrikt | Chateauneuf-du-Pape |
Årgang | 2009 |
Volume | 150CL |
Druer | Grenache, Mourvedre |
Kategori | Rødvin |
Kollistørrelse | 1 |
Kollitype | OCC |
Jeb Dunnuck
While described as masculine by Paul-Vincent (possibly due to the tannin level and quality), I found the 2009 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape to be quite elegant and almost finesse driven, showing gorgeous kirsch and licorice-laced blackberry-like fruits, Asian spice, garrigue, and floral notes on the nose, medium to full body, and a very straight, focused texture that highlights very fine grained tannin. While quite approachable now, with an almost Burgundian-like texture and density, this should ideally be given 3-4 years in the cellar, and then consumed over the following decade or longer. A resounding success in the vintage and lovers of Clos des Papes will not be disappointed.
Robert Parker
Still relatively young tasting, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape accents lush red fruit with hints of leather and Asian five spice powder. It's full-bodied and velvety, ripe, plush and long, a completely delicious taste experience that culminates in a lick of salted licorice. Owners should count themselves lucky to have purchased some, as this still has a decade or more of life ahead of it. As Paul-Vincent Avril said, "2009 is still a baby—decant it if you can."
Paul-Vincent Avril winced as we discussed the yields in recent vintages. In 2017, his parcels averaged 15 hectoliters per hectare, while in 2018, he only harvested nine hectoliters per hectare. "I've never seen that before," he said. The aim at the estate is 25 hectoliters per hectare. In fact, many of the foudres in the winery held only water during my visit, as it's important to keep the staves in these massive oak vessels wet so they maintain their integrity. At least, said Avril, "The quality [in 2018] is good, because the problems were in May and June. The wines are elegant. Tannins mature, soft and smooth." Avril keeps back a portion of each vintage for direct sales to restaurants, and he'll rely on those sales of mature wines to help make up the revenue. And speaking of older vintages, readers who have the 2009s should count themselves lucky, as both the red and white are drinking well today.