Robert Parker 92P
Pitch-dark , the 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains displays aromas of ripe black fruits, toasted nuts, machine oil, and wet stones. Soy, bitter dark chocolate, roasted portabello and resin on the palate add to the impression of complexity, concentration and darkness conveyed by this very serious wine. The intensity of the finish wrung me out. But fun to drink? Perhaps in another ten years. Amboise characterized this year’s fruit as consisting of “perfect berries, solid and well-structured” from which he concluded it should all be de-stemmed and a cautious approach taken to extraction. But caution is relative. Bertrand Ambroise certainly vinifies with a fanatic dedication to quality, but also with no concessions to the faint of heart, and his formidably tannic 2005s will strike some tasters as hyper-concentrated and flirting with over-extraction. Perhaps a bit more refinement and differentiation might have been achieved with a less robust and woody approach? Ambroise works largely with 400-liter barrels in an effort to preserve fruit by diminishing the surface-to-volume ratio and thus the flavoring effects of new wood, but I cannot claim that I would have recognized that fact in the wines themselves.
Bertrand Ambroise ligger i Bourgogne regionen i byen Prémeaux-Prissey. Husets historie har været i familien Ambroise i fem generationer, og der har været produceret vin siden 1940’erne. I 1977 overtog Bertrand og Martine, og i dag får de hjælp af deres børn Ludivine og Francois. Bertrand Ambroise har udover hans arbejde som vinproducent, desuden været borgmester i samme by, hvor vinhuset ligger. Selvom huset ikke er økologisk certificeret, har familien en naturlig indgang til vinproduktionen. De mener, at al god vin, starter i marken, og med respekt for naturen. Vinhuset har i dag 20 hektar vinmarker, og der arbejdes efter så mange naturlige principper som muligt i marken, f.eks. bruges der ikke kunstig gødning. Vinene fra Ambroise er kraftfulde i stilen, med masser af farve, frugt, fylde og ny eg.