Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 2010 0,75
Robert Parker 90-92/100
The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin is a very serious wine at this level. It boasts incredible finesse and sheer energy in a polished, pure expression of Gevrey. Ripe red berries, minerals and licorice are some of the notes that inform the wiry, intense finish. The average age of the vines is 40 years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Arnaud Mortet is focused on making elegant, refined wines. In 2010 he sought to achieve that through gentle extraction and less use of new oak barrels, which is broadly the direction his winemaking is headed, notwithstanding the many particulars that present themselves each year. Mortet planned to age the 2010s fifteen months in barrel, then rack the wines into steel. Yields are of course down across the board, but that won’t be much of a surprise to readers given the vintage. Overall, the Mortet 2010s are striking for their beauty and transparency. The 2009 also showed brilliantly from bottle. I will report on those wines in the April issue.
Denis Mortet Lavaux St. Jacques 2005 0,75
Robert Parker 95-96/100
The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques evinces a roasted meatiness and superb, low-toned depth of subtly sweet fruit, salty, savory yet implacable minerality, toasted nut piquancy, and an overall personality that combines palate-staining intensity with cool refinement and elegance, density with silky texture, and monumental minerality with verve. Plan to revel in this at anywhere from ten to twenty years age. Taking over this domaine in his mid-twenties, Arnaud Mortet appears poised to bottle a superb collection from his father’s final harvest. The crew took a brief second pass over certain parcels, he relates, and the bunches from some young vines required triage, but otherwise the fruit was perfect at first picking. Malolactic fermentations continued well into last autumn. Mortet emphasizes that he will continue a search for elegance and refinement begun in recent years, with a lighter touch during fermentation, and at least for vintage 2006 the employment of some previously-used barrels in order to de-emphasize wood at the modest end of his price spectrum.