Bourgogne, Vosne Romanee
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanee Conti 2007 0,75
Robert Parker 96P
I have never been treated to such a profusion of floral perfume from this legendary site as rose over the glass of 2007 Romanee-Conti. Hyacinth, rose, gladiola, and iris are underlain by scents of moss-covered, damp stone, wild ginger, and diverse tiny red fruits. “Romanee-Conti c’est le nez,” remarks de Villaine of this almost ethereal Pinot. The contrast with the more fleshly La Tache could not be more dramatic. But this doesn’t pull back on its silken-textured palate, either – far from it: along with persistent inner-mouth profusion of floral perfume come savory, irresistibly juicy raspberry and pomegranate as well as an impression of marrow-rich, multi-boned meat stock. A wafting, wave-like finish harbors the sort of exhilarating sheer refreshment one looks for in white wine, and a kaleidoscopic interchange of colorful floral, spice, fruit, carnal, and mineral elements such as few wines of any sort can deliver.
Domaine Romanee-Conti La Tache 2002 0,75
Robert Parker 93/100
Soy sauce, candied blood oranges, and dark cherries make up the nose of the outstanding 2002 La Tache. Extremely elegant and pure, this light to medium-bodied wine displays a superb satiny texture and a broad blackberry, black cherry, spice, and mineral-flavored character. It boasts a refined, noble personality with an exceedingly long, supple finish. The qualitative and ripeness differences between this wine and the Richebourg is striking as well as confounding.
Domaine Romanee-Conti La Tache 2005 0,75
Robert Parker 98-99/100
The 2005 La Tache epitomizes the unique mysteries of Pinot (not to mention the character of a great site), with its aromas of game, musk, iris, star anise, vanilla, allspice, and naturally also an abundance of sweet, ripe, implosively tiny-berried fruit. Imagine a black Riesling. On the palate, a vivid freshness of fruit, pungency of spice and flowers, and melting away of what in point of analytical fact are abundant tannins, all engender an almost white wine dynamic of fruit-mineral call-and-response and clear, incisive penetration of flavors to every recess of the mouth. This is a T.R. sort of wine – you just don’t feel the stick. Once the grapes in these fabled vineyards had reached a potential alcohol of 13%, reports Aubert de Villaine, he was ready to pick, because conditions had seldom been so conducive to perfect ripeness (including that of the stems). It was all done in a week, commencing with La Tache and Romanee Conti, and finishing on September 23 with Romanee-St.-Vivant (and Montrachet, on which I shall report at a future date). De Villaine intended to bottle in March or April by gravity in six-barrel lots, as has become general practice here over the past decade.
Domaine Romanee-Conti La Tache 2005 Magnum
Robert Parker 98-99P
The 2005 La Tache epitomizes the unique mysteries of Pinot (not to mention the character of a great site), with its aromas of game, musk, iris, star anise, vanilla, allspice, and naturally also an abundance of sweet, ripe, implosively tiny-berried fruit. Imagine a black Riesling. On the palate, a vivid freshness of fruit, pungency of spice and flowers, and melting away of what in point of analytical fact are abundant tannins, all engender an almost white wine dynamic of fruit-mineral call-and-response and clear, incisive penetration of flavors to every recess of the mouth. This is a T.R. sort of wine – you just don’t feel the stick.
Domaine Romanee-Conti La Tache 2006 0,75
Robert Parker 94PDomaine de La Romanee-Conti's 2006 La Tache possesses a sense of sheer density and a viscosity – by no means precluding energy – that go beyond the other wines in the Domaine's current collection. Scents of bitter-sweet floral perfume, citrus oils, white pepper, peat, and black fruit distillates pungently, almost aggressively fill the nose. The marrow and beef gelatin aspect of this Pinot is salient, but is allied on a palpably tannic palate with similarly impressive concentrated cooked black fruits, dark mushroom stock, forest floor, smoky Lapsang tea, and licorice. For grip and power, too, this surpasses its stable mates. But a glance back at the Romanee-St.-Vivant suggests that you can't have it all, and that this La Tache cannot approach that wine's finesse or quite equal its mystery. Still, I suspect this will be worth following for at least two decades.
The Domaine de La Romanee-Conti harvested from the 20th-25th of September (commencing with Richebourg) and subjected the crop to rigorous sorting. Understandably, the viticultural meticulousness at this estate as well as its team of some 60 highly-skilled and –motivated pickers paid dividends in the context of a challenging vintage. Director Aubert de Villaine and cellarmaster Bernard Noblet vinified their 2006s with a lesser share of stems and whole clusters, and exposed them to new wood for a shorter period (thereafter racking into older barrels) than the corresponding 2005s.
Domaine Romanee-Conti La Tache 2011 0,75
Robert Parker 95PThe La Tache 2011, picked on 5 and 6 September at 27.49hl/ha, has a wonderful bouquet that is quintessential La Tache: very complete and harmonious, beautifully delineated, succinct at first then with aeration, blossoming with brambly red berries, apple blossom, minerals and a touch of sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with immense purity and delicacy on the entry. This La Tache is extremely focused, velvety smooth in the mouth and although not as complex as the 2010, it has a beguiling femininity that will seduce at ten paces. It is extremely long in the mouth but politely does not outstay its welcome. Divine. 1,514 cases produced. Drink 2017-2040.
Domaine Romanee-Conti Richebourg 1999 0,75
Robert Parker 97POh yes. Oh yes, yes, yes. This 1999 Richebourg Grand Cru is a bit like a great athlete, one who really shows its class against stiff opposition, here in the form of 18 other Richebourg! It follows the same thread as the imperial 1999 La Tâche. It has been blessed with a sensational nose that boasts quite astonishing delineation and precision, fabulous mineralité. The aromatics are far more detailed and enthralling than the 2007 tasted alongside. The palate is beautifully structured, virtually symmetrical with filigree tannin, with a gentle crescendo in the mouth towards an effervescent finish with hints of orange peel. Simply effortless.
Domaine Romanee-Conti Richebourg 2000 0,75
Robert Parker 94-96/100Moderate ruby colour. An outstanding backward "broody" nose: cherries, minerals with a touch of black truffles. The palate has robust tannins, very harmonious with good complexity. Leathery fruit. Palate does note quite match the nose but the finish is very focused and long. I prefer this to Romane-Saint-Vivant. (1,295 cases produced) Tasted February 2003.
Domaine Romanee-Conti Richebourg 2007 0,75
Robert ParkerThe 2007 Richebourg Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is a wine that is "open for business" like many 2007s that decided that there is little point in waiting to please wine lovers. The color gives a lot away. Compared to a dozen other Richebourg, this was the palest in color by far - though looks can be deceptive, especially here. The aromatics still show the stem addition quite conspicuously, although I noticed that these aromas, which are almost ash-like, subside with continued aeration over 40-45 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with tart red cherry and raspberry fruit, a fine line of acidity and wonderful transparency. I would not hold it up as an exemplar of Richebourg, rather a Grand Cru that is just delicious to drink at the moment. Something I did notice was how it coalesced and gained weight with aeration, so despite its paleness, do not fear decanting this Richebourg for 30 minutes.
Domaine Romanee-Conti Richebourg 2009 0,75
Robert Parker 97PThe 2009 Richebourg is a dramatic wine. In 2009 there is so much fruit that the tannins are barely perceptible. With time in the glass dark notes of tar, smoke, licorice and violets develop, adding tons of complexity to the fruit. This is a huge, vertical wine that captures the essence of Richebourg in its towering fruit and structure. Layers of fruit saturate every corner of the palate as the wine builds to a deeply satisfying crescendo of head-spinning aromas and flavors. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2059.
Domaine de la Romanee-Conti’s 2009s have turned out just as brilliantly as I had hoped. The wines reflect the signature qualities of the year, but never lose their essential classicism. Long-time DRC fans know the domaine bottles in six-barrel lots, which naturally introduces a level of bottle variation that is not found in most other wines. I hope the massive amount of information that has recently come to light regarding counterfeit wines and their proliferation might be the catalyst for the domaine to consider bottling their wines in one homogenous lot, as is common for the vast majority of high-quality wines throughout the world. Once the domaine’s wines mature in 20-30 years it will be impossible to tell the difference between ‘normal’ bottle variation, poorly stored bottles and very good fakes. Certainly consumers who are willing and able to pay the prices these wines fetch are at the very least deserving of a consistent product.
Domaine Romanee-Conti Richebourg 2011 0,75
Robert Parker 94PThe 2011 Richebourg was picked on 7 and 8 September at 28.36hl/ha. It has a very pure bouquet, a mixture of blackberry, raspberry leaf, freshly tilled meadow and a touch of cold stone. It is not a powerful bouquet, but delineated and very focused. The palate is not dissimilar to the Grands Echezeaux on the entry: linear and poised with crisp brambly red fruit. But it swerves another way mid-through, developing a wonderful candied core of strawberry and Morello and a caressing finish sending ripples of pleasure across the senses. In many ways it is a self-effacing Richebourg with charm and candour, but I Richebourg that I suspect may be deceptively long lived. The Richebourg 2011 is a fair prince rather than a grand king. 931 cases produced. Drink 2018-2035.
Liger-Belair - La Colombiere 2008 0,75
The 2008 Vosne Romanee Les Colombieres evinces dark berries, forest floor, and Lapsang tea; comes to the palate seamlessly-structured, subtly creamy, and tenderly-fruited, with smoky aura and mouth-watering saline streak; and finishes saliva-inducing and invigorating, with its hint of berry-tartness well-integrated and effectively-deployed. This contrasts distinctly with the collection’s generic bottling, and ought to be worth following for at least 6-8 years, although I see little reason to resist it now. Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s 2008 collection strikes me as hands-down his best so far, and he is inclined to agree. But the quality of his 2007s also bespeaks increasing mastery of technique; focusing of his aesthetic (and a more focused resultant style); and certainly too, greater familiarity with his vineyards, a substantial portion of which (as explained in issue 186) was only acquired in 2006. (Liger-Belair would also put emphasis on the accumulated effect of a biodynamic regimen, including deep horse-plowing for the estate’s top acreage.) Malos were not inordinately late in this relatively warm cellar, and bottling of the 2008s took place between mid-January and late March, three weeks after which I tasted the wines. “The big deal,” opines Liger-Belair, “was – a bit of rot, of course, but – the major problem was rose, pink grapes. So my primary goal was to be at the beginning of the sorting table to pick out bunches” that harbored some of those berries, an imperfection that evidently could easily be missed. Liger-Belair continues to experiment with the inclusion of stems and whole clusters, although he limited this vendange entier approach in both the 2007 and 2008 vintages, lest any greenness intrude. Finished alcohols on the 2008s range from the low 12’s to low 13’s with only a minor amount of chaptalization performed on certain cuvees.
Liger-Belair - Vosne-Romenée La Colombiere 2007 0,75
Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s 2008 collection strikes me as hands-down his best so far, and he is inclined to agree. But the quality of his 2007s also bespeaks increasing mastery of technique; focusing of his aesthetic (and a more focused resultant style); and certainly too, greater familiarity with his vineyards, a substantial portion of which (as explained in issue 186) was only acquired in 2006. (Liger-Belair would also put emphasis on the accumulated effect of a biodynamic regimen, including deep horse-plowing for the estate’s top acreage.) Malos were not inordinately late in this relatively warm cellar, and bottling of the 2008s took place between mid-January and late March, three weeks after which I tasted the wines. “The big deal,” opines Liger-Belair, “was – a bit of rot, of course, but – the major problem was rose, pink grapes. So my primary goal was to be at the beginning of the sorting table to pick out bunches” that harbored some of those berries, an imperfection that evidently could easily be missed. Liger-Belair continues to experiment with the inclusion of stems and whole clusters, although he limited this vendange entier approach in both the 2007 and 2008 vintages, lest any greenness intrude. Finished alcohols on the 2008s range from the low 12’s to low 13’s with only a minor amount of chaptalization performed on certain cuvees.
Liger-Belair - Vosne-Romenée La Colombiere 2009 0,75
Robert Parker 93/100
The 2009 Vosne-Romanee La Colombiere is quite a bit fleshier than the 2010. The floral notes that are typical of this site are given a little extra volume and depth in 2009. Dark cherries, menthol and licorice are some of the nuances that flesh out on the generous, inviting finish. This is an especially round, inviting Burgundy with plenty of 2009 appeal. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s 2009s have turned out just as great as I thought they would. These are some of the most personal, intimate wines being made in Burgundy. There really is nothing else that even closely resembles the house style.
Mischief and Mayhem Vosne Romanee Vieilles Vignes 2013 0,75
Mischief and Mayhem består af Michael og Fiona Ragg og Michael Twelftree, tre gode venner hvis passion for vin, særligt Bourgogne, inspirerede dem til at starte op med eget setup i efteråret 2004. Før dette var Michael Ragg næsten 10 år hos Berry Bros. & Rudd, inden han flyttede til Bourgogne i foråret 2003. Her startede han op som vinkonsulent og winebroker i Aloxe-Corton.
Michael Twelftree er medstifter og samtidig drivkraften bag det Australske vineri Two Hands Wines fra Barossa Valley.
Mischief and Mayhem har et mål - at producere nogle af de bedste vine som Bourgogne kan tilbyde. Veltillavede, elegante og individuelle vine, der hver især repræsenterer både kommune og appellation.
Pacalet Vosne Romanee 1er Cru les Chaumes 2013 0,75
The 2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Chaumes Air comes from vines planted in 1937. It has a pure red cherry and bergamot-scented bouquet that is nicely defined and tensile. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good depth of fruit with orange rind and a dab of spice. This fans out nicely toward the finish. This is a commendable premier cru, although I prefer Philippe's take on the vintage in Gevrey this year.
Philippe Charlopin-Parizot Vosne Romanee 2010 0,75
Robert Parker 90-92
The 2010 Vosne-Romanee is deeply layered and totally sensual from the very first taste. Layers of dark fruit, minerals, spices and licorice are all woven together in this classy, refined Burgundy. This is an especially pliant, radiant 2010, but with more than enough underlying minerality to drink well for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020.
Vintage 2010 is very strong across the board Chez Charlopin. I found much to like in these beautiful, articulate wines. Like many of his colleagues who favor a bold, fruit-driven style, Charlopin benefited from a long, cold growing season that helped balance some of the overt notes that are typically present in his wines. The 2010 harvest began on September 25 and finished on October 14. All of the wines were made with 100% destemmed fruit and aged in 100% new oak barrels. Some of the wines were slightly chaptalized, which was common in 2010. Only the Bourgogne Franc de Pied was too reduced to evaluate.