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Bourgogne, Gevrey-Chambertin

 


Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2011 0,75
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2011 0,75



DKK 6.250,00
Robert Parker 95P
Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2011 from Rousseau was showing too much wood when I tasted it just after bottling. Whereas some 2011s from Rousseau seem to have been handicapped by that, others like this have shrugged it off. Here, it has a more generous bouquet compared to its peers, armed with lush red cherries, strawberry and cassis. The oak vanillin is noticeable but synced with the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a plush texture. There is very good depth here and arresting purity – red cherries strawberry and candied orange peel that segue into a citrus fresh and vibrant finish with plenty of energy and race. Superb. 
Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2012 0,75
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2012 0,75



DKK 9.995,00
Robert Parker 97P
Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a scintillating, effervescent nose, the new oak beautifully interwoven into the complex red cherry, raspberry and pomegranate scents. There is wonderful definition here. The palate is very well balanced with well judged acidity that cuts a swathe through the structured red berry fruit. This is a serious Clos-de-Bèze reserved for long-term ageing. Quite brilliant.
Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 1999 0,75
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 1999 0,75



DKK 14.995,00
Robert Parker

Produced from 45-year-old vines, the 1999 Chambertin is medium to dark ruby-colored. It has super-ripe, talcum, and blackberry aromas that lead to a medium to full-bodied wine of outstanding depth. Loads of oak-laced black fruits can be found throughout its zesty, firm character.
Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2002 0,75
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2002 0,75



DKK 9.495,00
Robert Parker 94-96/100

Pine resin, sweet blackberries, and dark cherries are found in the nose of the 2002 Chambertin. Medium-bodied, its silky-textured character offers spice box, black raspberry, cherry, cassis, and notes of fresh herbs. This pure, noble, suave wine also possesses a prolonged, seamless finish that is loaded with additional layers of fruit. Corinne Rousseau stated that “it will age forever.”
Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2003 0,75
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2003 0,75



DKK 7.995,00
Robert Parker
Red cherries, super-ripe raspberries, fresh blackberries and spices make up the aromatic profile of the 2003 Chambertin. Medium to full-bodied and silky-textured in both the attack and mid-palate, this wine exhibits outstanding amplitude and depth. Assorted sweet black fruits are interspersed with a myriad of spices in its complex character. Its extensive finish displays copious quantities of firm, slightly rough tannin.
Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2006 0,75
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2006 0,75



DKK 7.495,00
Robert Parker 93-94/100 
The Rousseau 2006 Chambertin offers a gorgeous bouquet of roses, fresh cherry, nutmeg, and anise. Not at all weighty, it however offers caressing refinement of texture and luscious fluidity of well-concentrated red fruits and liquid floral perfume. Subtly smoky, meaty undertones gain prominence as the wine takes on air, and ineffable mineral notes emerge, too, as this finishes with lift, refinement, intricate interactive complexity, and lip-smacking generosity, yet not without an aura of mystery appropriate to this great site. No doubt the results will be worth following for a dozen or more years. 
Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 0,75
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 0,75



DKK 10.995,00
Robert Parker 95/100 
The 2009 Chambertin is breathtaking in its beauty. It boasts gorgeous textural depth and richness in its eternal, endless layers of fruit. This is a totally seamless wine that captures the style of the year and the personality of the vineyard. A sweet note of cassis lingers on the finessed finish.
Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2011 0,75
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2011 0,75



DKK 6.250,00
Robert Parker 93/100 
Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune, you have to get past a little reduction on the nose of Rousseau’s Chambertin 2011 that is animally and feral, developing a strong estuarine influence - mudflats, kelp and sea salt. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, slightly chalky tannins and fine precision. Grippy in the mouth and more masculine with a precise, mineral finish. 
Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2012 0,75
Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru 2012 0,75



DKK 9.995,00
Robert Parker 96/100 
Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chambertin Grand Cru has a touch of mint on the nose, complementing the mixture of red and black fruit, a pastille-like purity developing with time. This is very charming and the oak is neatly folded into the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, the acidity perfectly judged and lending the tension and poise one expects from a Chambertin. It does lose a little intensity in the glass but it's from such a high point it is neither here nor there. This is a wonderful Chambertin.
Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2012 0,75
Armand Rousseau Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2012 0,75



DKK 2.495,00
Galloni 92-94P
Galloni 92-94P
Intensity and volume are the first things that come to mind in the 2012 Charmes-Chambertin. Layers if blue/blackish fruit blossom in a wine that is beautifully textured and vibrant throughout. I very much like the intensity here. I tasted two different barrels of Charmes, both in different states of their evolution, which is why generally speaking I feel the wines aren't fully formed just yet.
Vis produktside for: Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2012 0,75
Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2012 0,75



DKK 3.750,00
Robert Parker 94-96P
The 2012 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru comes from the domain’s monopole: populated by one-third vines aged around 30-years and the remainder around 65-years old (see December issue for more details.) This year it sees 20% new oak. It has wonderful delineation on the nose with heightened mineralite from the limestone soils. The palate is medium-bodied with a precise opening. There is a wave of pure, clinically defined fresh raspberry and wild strawberry notes that dovetails into quite a stern, very linear finish. This is uncompromising at the moment, an aloof yet compelling Ruchottes-Chambertin that does not quite possess the completeness of say, Mugneret-Gibourg’s, but clearly as the substance to age extremely well. 

The trajectory of Armand Rousseau has been phenomenal in recent years. In particular, after the beatified 2005 vintages, the most revered Gevrey-Chambertin producer suddenly found itself amongst the Holy Grail, one whose wines are sought and fought over from London to New York to Hong Kong and everywhere in between. As I have written before, Rousseau is one of my benchmark producers as no doubt it is for many. Rousseau has been the source of some of the greatest wines I have ever consumed: just peruse my write-up of a Ruchottes-Chambertin vertical in December’s issue as evidence. At the same time, part of my appreciation for Rousseau is that they do not try to cover up their wines that can occasionally wear their frailties on their sleeves. This imbues Rousseau’s wines with a sense of honesty and clarity, a reflection of a vineyard buffeted and enhanced by the vagaries of a capricious growing season from one year to the next. If you are lucky enough to participate in a vertical of Rousseau’s wines, then you experience the peaks and troughs, but never a bottle that tries to be something it was not born to be. I had already heard whispers of how good Rousseau’s 2012s were before my arrival and sure enough, tasting through their enviable portfolio, there are a clutch of quite brilliant wines destined to be fought over when allocations are released. And at the same time, I would argue that it is not as consistent as say 2005 or 2010, but would agree with winemaker Frederic Robert that they constitute a step up from the 2011s that I tasted six months earlier. “It was a quite difficult flowering because of the rain and cold,” Frederic told me. “Even July was cold and rainy. Then we had 6 or 7 weeks of sun from August. We started to pick on 20 September. We lost about 20% of the harvest mainly because of flowering and sorting, but we had to do less sorting than 2013. We de-stemmed around 90% of the crop and did a little chaptalization, but only by a very small amount. The old vines produced small grapes. We will bottle in July and so we will rack them one more time in March.” When I asked whether the 2012s reminded him of any other vintage, Frederic replied that perhaps the 2010 would make a good comparison, albeit without the same tannic structure. I would agree with this observation. Rousseau’s 2012 do err more towards the masculine side, unlike the more voluptuous 2009s, yet unlike 2011 there is more freshness, tension and vigor. Moreover, I cannot recall tasting Rousseau’s wines from barrel, whereby the individuality of each vineyard is articulated with such clarity. This year, each village, premier or grand cru is true to their respective characteristics, the hand of the winemaker much smaller than that of the vineyard.
Vis produktside for: Claude Dugat Bourgogne Rouge 2010 0,75
Claude Dugat Bourgogne Rouge 2010 0,75



DKK 349,00

Robert Parker

The 2010 Bourgogne (from parcels in Gevrey) comes across as round, sweet and perfumed. Mint and freshly cut flowers add complexity to the bright, beautifully articulated fruit. This is a lovely effort at the Bourgogne level. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. 

Claude Dugat farms 16 hectares, of which only 3 are owned. Dugat waited until September 20 to start harvesting. The fruit was 100% destemmed and spent 15 days on the skins with two punchdowns a day and no pumpovers. The wine was pressed, left 48 hours to decant and moved into barrel. The wines were racked the following April and were bottled with no fining or filtration. The Bourgogne were aged in neutral oak, the Villages and 1ers saw 50% new oak and the Grand Crus saw 100% new oak.
Vis produktside for: Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques 2009 0,75
Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques 2009 0,75



DKK 1.750,00
Robert Parker 94/100

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques is a serious wine that has begun to close down in bottle. While that is a great sign for the future, today the Lavaux St. Jacques isn’t showing much. The balance of fruit and structure is compelling, though. This should be a magical bottle once it awakens.
Vis produktside for: Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2006 0,75
Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2006 0,75



DKK 749,00
Distrikt:
Bourgogne, Gevrey-Chambertin
Land:
Frankrig
Årgang:
2006
Type:
Red

 

Robert Parker

Dugat's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin - almost inevitably incorporating some parcels that were hit by hail - displays a surprisingly dark color for its vintage and appellation; sweetly ripe, nutmeg-tinged cherry mingled with pungent wood smoke and well-hung game; and a penetrating persistence of sweetness, pungency, brightness, and tannic hardness. A kirsch distillate-like aura wafts throughout this, emphasizing the impression of high ripeness, and meat stock suggestions add richness of a carnal sort, but this will need to deal with its tannins, and I'll refrain for now from prognosticating further.

"I like the 2006s a lot for their very Pinot character, their elegance, and the expression of their respective terroirs," says Claude Dugat, echoing the sentiment expressed by a great many growers about this vintage, and adding that his crop's potential alcohol levels were significantly lower than in 2005. That said, richness and robustness nearly always seem to be in the cards at this address, and in fact the 2006 collection displays formidable density and tanninity, the latter at times reinforced by the effects of new wood. Dugat admits - again, echoing the observation of numerous growers - that his 2006s put on weight and structure in the course of elevage. (The suggested pricing I received for these wines seemed implausibly high, incidentally, and I tempered it in response to spot-checking. But it should be noted that market prices for these wines are both especially high and highly variable.)
Vis produktside for: Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2009 0,75
Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2009 0,75



DKK 695,00
Distrikt:
Bourgogne, Gevrey-Chambertin
Land:
Frankrig
Årgang:
2009
Type:
Red

 

Robert Parker 91/100

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin is rich, deep and powerful. Black cherries, hard candy, plums, violets and licorice are some of the many notes that flesh out in the glass as the Gevrey shows off its flashy, exotic personality. Layers of fruit build to the effortless, radiant finish. This is a very representative 2009.

Claude Dugat farms 16 hectares, of which only 3 are owned. Dugat waited until September 20 to start harvesting. The fruit was 100% destemmed and spent 15 days on the skins with two punchdowns a day and no pumpovers. The wine was pressed, left 48 hours to decant and moved into barrel. The wines were racked the following April and were bottled with no fining or filtration. The Bourgogne were aged in neutral oak, the Villages and 1ers saw 50% new oak and the Grand Crus saw 100% new oak.
Vis produktside for: Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 2010 0,75
Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 2010 0,75



DKK 550,00
Robert Parker 90-92/100

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin is a very serious wine at this level. It boasts incredible finesse and sheer energy in a polished, pure expression of Gevrey. Ripe red berries, minerals and licorice are some of the notes that inform the wiry, intense finish. The average age of the vines is 40 years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Arnaud Mortet is focused on making elegant, refined wines. In 2010 he sought to achieve that through gentle extraction and less use of new oak barrels, which is broadly the direction his winemaking is headed, notwithstanding the many particulars that present themselves each year. Mortet planned to age the 2010s fifteen months in barrel, then rack the wines into steel. Yields are of course down across the board, but that won’t be much of a surprise to readers given the vintage. Overall, the Mortet 2010s are striking for their beauty and transparency. The 2009 also showed brilliantly from bottle. I will report on those wines in the April issue.
Vis produktside for: Denis Mortet Lavaux St. Jacques 2005 0,75
Denis Mortet Lavaux St. Jacques 2005 0,75



DKK 2.250,00
Robert Parker 95-96/100

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques evinces a roasted meatiness and superb, low-toned depth of subtly sweet fruit, salty, savory yet implacable minerality, toasted nut piquancy, and an overall personality that combines palate-staining intensity with cool refinement and elegance, density with silky texture, and monumental minerality with verve. Plan to revel in this at anywhere from ten to twenty years age. Taking over this domaine in his mid-twenties, Arnaud Mortet appears poised to bottle a superb collection from his father’s final harvest. The crew took a brief second pass over certain parcels, he relates, and the bunches from some young vines required triage, but otherwise the fruit was perfect at first picking. Malolactic fermentations continued well into last autumn. Mortet emphasizes that he will continue a search for elegance and refinement begun in recent years, with a lighter touch during fermentation, and at least for vintage 2006 the employment of some previously-used barrels in order to de-emphasize wood at the modest end of his price spectrum.
Vis produktside for: Domaine Henri Clerc Gevrey Chambertin 1. Cru Les Cazetiers 2010 0,75
Domaine Henri Clerc Gevrey Chambertin 1. Cru Les Cazetiers 2010 0,75



DKK 475,00
Galloni 90-93P
Galloni 90-93P
Dark red. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, meat, animal fur and violet. Dense, saline and tight-grained, with lovely energy and finesse to the concentrated dark raspberry flavor. Less black and powerful than the Beaune Greves but also more refined than the preceding Cote de Beaune wines. Finishes long and saline, with fine tannins.
Vis produktside for: Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin Clos de Béze Grand Cru 2010 0,75
Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin Clos de Béze Grand Cru 2010 0,75



DKK 2.750,00

Vis produktside for: Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny Amoureuses 1er Cru 2010 0,75
Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny Amoureuses 1er Cru 2010 0,75



DKK 2.350,00
Vis produktside for: Domaine Robert Groffier Gevrey Chambertin Les Seuvrees 2010 0,75
Domaine Robert Groffier Gevrey Chambertin Les Seuvrees 2010 0,75



DKK 599,00
Vis produktside for: Dujac Fils & Peré - Gevrey Chambertin 2009 0,75
Dujac Fils & Peré - Gevrey Chambertin 2009 0,75



DKK 499,00
Robert Parker

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin is a pretty, fleshy wine laced with sweet red raspberries, violets and mint. I would prefer to drink the 2009 over the next few years as there are elements of fragility on the finish that suggest the wine is not built for the long haul. I doubt that will be much of a problem, as the 2009 is terrific right now.

Vis produktside for: Pacalet Gevrey Chambertin 2013 0,75
Pacalet Gevrey Chambertin 2013 0,75



DKK 549,00
Robert Parker
The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin, taken directly from tank, has a crisp wild strawberry and red cherry bouquet. The palate is nicely structured, crunchy in the mouth with good volume and gentle grip. Blackberry and raspberry fruit toward the rounded finish complete this easy-drinking Gevrey.
Vis produktside for: Pacalet Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques 2013 0,75
Pacalet Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques 2013 0,75



DKK 899,00
Robert Parker
The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint Jacques has an undergrowth-scented and more rustic bouquet that has plenty of charm. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip, good structure and quite masculine in personality. The finish feels a little austere on the finish and will hopefully develop more flesh by the time of bottling.
Vis produktside for: Pacalet Ruchottes Chambertin 2013 0,75
Pacalet Ruchottes Chambertin 2013 0,75



DKK 2.495,00
Robert Parker
The 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very fragrant and pure bouquet with strawberry coulis, Seville orange, limestone and rose-petal scents that is exuberant and focused. The palate is ripe and candied on the entry with fine tannins, superb minerality and a very elegant, refined finish that is quite Mugneret-Gibourg in style. While not the best-known Ruchottes, this is perfect for those that cannot find or afford the "big three" (Roumier, Mugneret-Gibourg or Rousseau).
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